Ask Button #2

Dear Button,

I want to give my rabbit treats that she really loves, but I know that commercially-made treats aren't the best for her. What are some natural treats that you love to eat?

Love,
Health-Conscious Bunny Mom
Paramus, NJ




Dear Health-Conscious Bunny Mom,

Wow! Your rabbit is so lucky to have someone who is looking out for her health and happiness! My mom always gives us the best treats. Since I'm blind, it does take me a while to recognize new smells that I like. However, my mom always introduces new yummy healthy things to me and my furry siblings!

You're right- commercial treats aren't the best for us lagomorphs (by that I mean rabbits). They are often too fattening and sugary for us. Although many of us have a sweet tooth and love yummy treats, they really aren't the best for us. Treats with many different colors or seeds on them really aren't good for us either.

Some of my favorite treats are dried fruit! My mom bought freeze dried strawberries and blueberries from Trader Joe's, and they were a big hit around here. We also love Oxbow's Papaya Tablets and we get about one of those a day, although I do beg for more! Occasionally, my mom will give us each a small piece of fruit like apple or banana. Me and the other rabbits in my home also love our fresh dark, leafy greens, and I feel like I'm getting a treat each night when my mom serves them to us!

Check out the approved fruit and veggie list on the House Rabbit Society's website. They have recommendations of healthy food that you can introduce to your rabbit slowly. They even have a veggie shopping list!

Remember, like me, your rabbit may not love the new treats on the first try. Don't worry- she may come around! Just leave the treat in her food bowl and she may try it later!

Keep up the good work- your rabbit will definitely appreciate it! Thanks for writing in!

Love,
Button


***Feel free to send in your own questions for Button to answer!

Adopt a Hug-a-Bunny!

If you're looking to expand your furry family and think you can offer a "forever home" to one of our rescued rabbits, read on!

We are always looking for amazing and loving families to adopt our amazing rabbits. They have all previously lost their homes for one reason or another, and many of them have been the victims of abuse and neglect. At Hug-a-Bunny, we are not looking for a quick fix or to find temporary homes. Once our rabbits are adopted, it is our expectation that they will be adopted to a loving, forever home. Remember that rabbits have very specific needs and that they can live to be 8-10 years of age. Please consider this when thinking about adopting!

Rabbits are affectionate animals and need homes where they can have a safe place to live and play.

The rabbits in our care are wonderful creatures (of course we're partial) and we would be willing to elaborate on any of their qualities if you feel that you need more information! There is something special and unique about each of our rabbits. Please take your time and read about each of the Hug-a-Bunnies, even if you aren't quite ready to adopt. You never know, a Hug-a-Bunny might steal your heart, as they have done to ours! And yes, all of our rabbits ARE huggable!

We will adopt to indoor homes in the tri-state area (or outside of this area for special exceptions). Please take a look at our rabbits to see if any of them are the right match for you! If you don't see your match, email us and we can tell you about rabbits in our care that are not yet posted online. There is a $50 adoption donation, which allows us to rescue and spay/neuter more rabbits! This fee offsets the money we spend rescuing these rabbits.

If you are interested in any of the rabbits on our site, please email hugabunny@gmail.com for more information and an adoption application. Please note that all Hug-a-Bunnies are adopted to indoor homes only. Once we receive an inquiry, will get back to you quickly!

Please keep in mind that we may have several people interested in the same rabbit at one time, and adoptions are based on the most fitting home for a bun, as we always have their best interest in mind. We also have other rabbits that aren't currently listed on Petfinder since they aren't yet spayed or neutered or aren't yet in a Hug-a-Bunny foster home.

Ask Button #1

Dear Button,

Why does my rabbit rub his chin on everything?

Love,
Curious Rabbit Mom
Wayne, NJ


Dear Curious Rabbit Mom,

Hi, I'm Button, the amazing past Hug-a-Bunny. I volunteered to answer any rabbit-related questions since I want people to know how we truly feel and what we do really means!

What a good question you have! Your rabbit must really love you and his home! When we rub our chin on things, we're actually putting our scent on it, or are "marking" it. We do this so we remember where we've been and so we can claim things as ours. I often tell people that every time we rub our chin on something, we're thinking, "this is mine....this is mine...." It's true! I love to put my scent on everything so I feel at home. Rabbits like me do this more if another rabbit lives nearby or uses the same play area at a different time. Sometimes we even rub our chin on our favorite human or food so that we know those are ours too! I guess we just want everything to be ours!

Anyway, that's all for now! I hope this answered your question! Feel free to send in another question soon!

Love,
Button



***Ask Button is a new series of postings where our adopted Hug-a-Bunny Button will be answering questions about rabbit behavior, health, and care. Feel free to send in any of your own questions for Button to answer! Simply email your questions to hugabunny@gmail.com and Button would be happy to answer them all! Please be aware that it may take a few days for Button to answer you, since he's still learning how to write!

Congratulations Clover Lop!

We want to give a big congratulations to our sweet girl, Clover Lop, who was adopted on Wednesday, October 14th! Clover Lop's adoption marks another special milestone for us- our 175th adoption! We can't believe how far we've come in only 3 short years! We are so happy for Clover Lop in her new home!

Clover Lop came to us when her family could no longer care for her. While they loved Clover Lop, they knew they couldn't keep her and wanted to do the best thing for her. Clover Lop fit into her foster home beautifully and was a joy to have around. Clover Lop joined an amazing home, where is living free roam and will be treated like a queen for the rest of her life! Congratulations Clover Lop!!!

Rabbit Health: GI Stasis

Is your rabbit eating???

One of the most important things I tell people about rabbit health is that they should always be on the lookout for their rabbit's appetite! Unlike dogs or cats, rabbits cannot go without eating for extended periods of time. They are grazers and if you watch your pet rabbit, you'll see that they eat throughout the day. They love to munch on pieces of hay and will get up often to have a few bites before relaxing again. Rabbits should never stop eating for an extended period of time. If they aren't eating and aren't acting like themselves for more than 12 hours, there's a good chance your rabbit is going into or has already gone into GI Stasis.

In the rabbit world, gastrointestinal (GI) Stasis is called the "silent killer" because it isn't an outward illness that you can spot and treat. It can come quickly and strongly, and can quickly claim a rabbit's life. I always tell people to monitor their rabbit's eating so they can catch any issues right from the start.

According to the House Rabbit Society's article by vet Dana Krempels, a rabbit's intestine's can become static (or will stop moving) for a variety of reasons which include, "(1) stress, (2) dehydration, (3) pain from another underlying disorder or illness (such as gas, dental problems, infections, or urinary tract disorders), (4) an intestinal blockage, or (5) insufficient dietary crude fiber" (http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/ileus.html). If you notice your rabbit looks like they are in pain, isn't eating, or isn't being him or herself, GI Stasis could be the culprit. The important thing behind this is that you are on a race against time to help your rabbit. As stated in the article, this stopping of a rabbit's normal intestinal movement can "result in a painful death in a relatively short period of time. If your rabbit stops eating or producing feces for 12 hours or more, you should consider the condition an EMERGENCY. GET YOUR BUNNY TO A RABBIT-SAVVY VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY" (http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/ileus.html). Read the quoted article for more specific information about GI Stasis and what you can do if you come across it.

Essentially, GI Stasis is when a rabbit's gut slows down from its normal pace, which may cause their stomach to become dehydrated (and therefore harder to pass the food) and can fill with gas, which is very painful for a rabbit. This snowballs into a larger issue if the food stops moving through the intestine completely.

Your rabbit should always be eating. A rabbit should never go more than 12 hours without eating. There are many clues to pick up on to know if your rabbit is in GI Stasis. First, your happy rabbit may be hunched in a corner of the room. You may be able to hear loud gut noises (gas) and see the rabbit grinding his or her teeth (sign of pain). To know for sure if your rabbit is refusing food, offer him or her a favorite treat. If they won't eat it, you may have an issue. Fecal size is also another indication of a rabbit's health. If you suddenly see your rabbit's poop get smaller and harder, this may be a sign that GI Stasis is upon you. You know your rabbit the best, so continuously look for clues that might point to a bigger issue.

We receive many emails from people asking what to do when their rabbit isn't eating. First and foremost, get your rabbit to a rabbit-savvy vet immediately. This is not something that can wait for another day. For some rabbits, the vet appointment can be the difference between life and death. The vet can assess the situation and give your rabbit some much-needed assistance. Many times, vets will give Sub-Q fluids to the rabbit (fluid inserted under the skin since rabbits in stasis are often dehydrated), pain medication like Metacam (stasis is very painful), gut mobility drugs like Reglan (to help the gut get moving again), and maybe even antibiotics if your vet feels that it is necessary. At home, you can offer your rabbit a healthy diet (see our posting titled Rabbit Health: Diet) and offer the rabbit plenty of freshly-washed dark leafy greens so your rabbit can get as much water as possible. Allow your rabbit to eat anything they will- pellets, unlimited timothy hay, greens, and offer any of your rabbit's favorite treats. It's so important to get your rabbit's stomach moving actively again, and offering their favorite foods will hopefully move this along. Also, offer your rabbit tons of water (in both a bottle and a bowl) to allow him or her to get as much water in their system as possible! These small accommodations may help your rabbit and you might see them eating more immediately. Still, it is important for your rabbit-savvy vet to check out your rabbit to determine if there is any supportive care needed.

Aside from medication given to you by the vet, there are other things you can do at home to help your rabbit beat a bout of GI Stasis. This includes:

Simethicone- This is a gas relief formula made for infants and is sold in a liquid form in almost all drug stores. It is for the relief of acute gas pain which accompanies GI Stasis. It is sometimes called Mylicon (but the main ingredient is Simethicone) and helps to break up the gas bubbles that build up in a rabbit's stomach. Simethicone has been a saving grace for us more than once and can help instantly to break up the gas that is building in a rabbit's GI tract and we feel it has been a key ingredient for us when curing GI Stasis. We always have some Simethicone on hand in case of an emergency and recommend that all of our adopters and foster homes do as well. This is in liquid form and can be used through the dropper to put directly in the rabbit's mouth. For dosing, 1-2 cc (of the 20 mg/ml suspension) can be given as often as every hour for three doses, then 1 cc every three to eight hours" (http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/ileus.html). Since the substance has no known drug interactions and is not absorbed through the intestinal lining, it is safe for rabbits to use. You can use Simethicone safely as a precaution (if you think you may be having a problem but aren't sure) since it is not given long-term. Of course, if this doesn't help your rabbit within the first day or two, a rabbit-savvy vet should be consulted for further advice and prescription medication.

Oral Fluids- If you have a small syringe, you can give your rabbit some water through their mouth, which may help to hydrate the gut and keep things moving. Make sure to drop the water into their cheek behind the incisors slowly so the rabbit can still breathe while they are drinking. Do not put the syringe too far back in the rabbit's mouth- you don't want to aspirate them! Be careful! Gently give your rabbit a little bit of water into their cheek at a time. On occasion, we've added a tiny bit of fruit juice to the water so the experience is a bit more enjoyable for the rabbit. You can give the rabbit a little bit of water each hour, or more often if they will tolerate it.

Force Feeding- If instructed by your vet, your rabbit may need you to give them supportive feeding care through a syringe. Oxbow Hay Company creates a wonderful product called "Critical Care," which is a powder (you add water to it) made to supplement the diet of an herbivore. Once water is added, it creates a slurry that you can force feed to your rabbit. If you don't have Critical Care, you can also take your rabbit's pellets and create a slurry by using 2-3 tablespoons of pellets and 1/2 cup of warm water to break them down. This can be put into a feeding syringe as well. Another option would be to use fruit or vegetable baby food or applesauce. Make sure it's something your rabbit would enjoy! You can force feed your rabbit 1-2 cc of food at a time, but be careful not to squirt it too quickly or down their windpipe! Give your rabbit time to chew and swallow before feeding more. Be VERY careful not to go too fast as it could injure your rabbit more! Don't take the word "force" in force feeding to heart. Be gentle with your rabbit and feed them slowly into the side of their cheek by their incisors. If your rabbit is in Stasis, the last thing they want to do is eat! I suggest putting your rabbit on your lap (legs together) facing outward. Then, put the syringe in your rabbit's cheek and put a little of the Critical Care mixture into their mouth. Go slowly!!! You can feed your rabbit every hour, or more if they will tolerate it.

Abdominal Massage- Since GI Stasis involves a belly full of gas, abdominal massage can be a help in breaking up the gas and easing the pain for your rabbit. If your rabbit tolerates this (it may feel good for some rabbits while bad for others), gently massage the abdomen (stomach area). You may feel a hard belly full of gas, and massage can help break it up!

Again, we are not vets and are only making recommendations based on what vets have instructed us to do in the past and what has worked for us. As always, please make sure to check with your own rabbit-savvy vet before making any of your own medical decisions. Your rabbit's life could depend on it!

Try to stay calm and confident to help your rabbit work their way out of GI Stasis. Sometimes there's nothing you may have done to onset the issue, but you can help the rabbit once they go into stasis. Being an observant bunny parent is one of the best gifts you can give your rabbit, since you may be able to catch any eating or health issues before they become a bigger problem.

Although we are not vets, feel free to email us at hugabunny@gmail.com for any individual questions that we may be able to help answer.

Donations Kindly Accepted

We operate our rescue solely from money from our own pockets and generous monetary donations. If you would like to donate financially, kindly send your checks to our address (Hug-a-Bunny Rabbit Rescue, P.O. Box 223, Rutherford, NJ 07070) or click here to donate directly to our Paypal account. Remember, since we are a 501(c)(3) organization, all of your donations are tax-deductable!

In addition to our much-needed financial support, we are always in need of supplies used to help us take care of the rabbits in our care. If you have any of the items listed below (or want to purchase them for us) and are willing to donate, we will gladly meet to receive the items from you! We don't have a physical location for drop-offs, but we always make it work!

-Blankets (primarily fleece)
-Cages of any size (dog crates, plastic-bottom Marchioro rabbit cages, Leith Petwerks cages)
-Litterboxes (rabbit or cat)
-Animal Carriers (new or gently used)
-Exercise Pens
-Carefresh bedding
-Oxbow food and/or hay products
-Rabbit toys
-Cleaning Supplies (garbage bags, animal-safe cleaner)

Thank you from our Hug-a-Bunnies!

Why Should I Adopt?

This post has a lot of meaning for us, since we're an animal rescue group! There are so many unwanted animals out there. Shelters and rescue groups are just overflowing with rabbits who are looking for homes, many of whom never make it to one. Why is there such a dilemma? Well, first, rabbits can procreate very quickly. A rabbit's gestation period is only 30 days long and they can get pregnant again right after! Many litters are accidental, and many of these babies end up in shelters.

People can also be careless and do not fully research about an animals before they buy or rescue them. Therefore, many people "get sick" of an animal shortly after taking them home. This causes a problem for the animal, since their chances of getting adopted again after being returned to a shelter aren't great. We know there are many pet stores and breeders out there who make it seem desirable to purchase an animal. However, in our opinion, this is not the way to go. There are many more animals on death row in shelters across the country who never have a second chance. Many times the animals in shelters are pure bred animals and originally came from a pet store or a breeder. For example, look at Sunflower below. She was purchased from a breeder for Easter of 2008, then dumped at a kill-shelter where her life eas in danger. Sunflower is a pure-bred Lionhead, one of the most desirable breeds of rabbit out there!


Adoption is the best option for all animals- including dogs, cats, rabbits, or any other species of animal! If you're looking for a specific breed, many dog rescues are split up by breeds. Other rescue groups will help any animal who comes along. As a rescue, Hug-a-Bunny will help any rabbit in need and our goal is simply to save lives. We go around to shelters where rabbits are in danger of being euthanized, and we give them a second chance at happiness. Again, many of these rabbits are products of a breeder, pet store (breeders supply them too), or accidental litters. The animals in shelters need our help, since it may be their only hope. Consider opening up your heart and homes to an adopted animal- they will be forever grateful!

**Before you adopt an animal, please fully research about the species and their needs. It's so important to make a decision that is best for you and the animal so they don't end up homeless again. We are always looking for permanent, loving homes.

Featured Adoptable: Echo

If you're looking for a friendly, wonderful, handsome Hug-a-Bunny, look no farther! Meet Echo- our Hug-a-Bunny ambassador! Poor Echo was rescued as part of a bigger rescue campaign when trying to shut down a horrible backyard breeder. After being followed for years, the authorities were finally able to rescue 57 rabbits from living in filthy dumpster-like enclosures with little food or water. Echo, Bryce, Sundance, and Forest all joined our rescue in Easter of 2008. Poor Forest passed away shortly after, but Bryce (who only had one ear, one eye, and half of a nose) and Sundance went on to find amazing, wonderful homes. Poor Echo is the only one left behind.



One of Echo's best traits is his amazing personality. He's so friendly, loves people, and enjoys spending time with his foster mom! He loves to eat, does binkies, and is a friendly and playful guy. Echo doesn't even mind the cats and small dogs living in his foster home. He's perfect with his litterbox and really is an all-around amazing guy. We know that any family would be lucky to have Echo join their home...we're just waiting for them to come along! He's been waiting for over 1 1/2 years in our rescue, and we know his forever home isn't far away!



Another trademark of Echo's is his one sideways ear. While this is adorable, it was actually caused by people picking Echo up by his ears, which is horrible for a rabbit. While this causes Echo no pain, it is a constant reminder of the life he left behind, and how lucky he is to be living such a great life now. Echo doesn't take any minute for granted and enjoys every day.

While we don't know how old Echo is, we know he's in good health and has lots of life left to give his future home. We would love for Echo to find a family like his friends Sundance and Bryce. With such an amazing personality, it's a wonder why he hasn't already been scooped up!


Please consider opening up your home and heart to our amazing Echo.

In Memory: Pumpernickel (Nikki)

It is with great sadness that we say farewell to one of our favorite Hug-a-Bunnies. Sweet Nikki (Pumpernickel) passed away on September 25th, 2009.

Nikki was rescued after being found outdoors roaming the streets. She was caught and showed up at a local shelter, which is how we met her and rescued her. After living with her foster mom Lisa for months, she found a wonderful new home with an amazing family. Nikki was very loved and spoiled, and lived in her home happily for two years.

Nikki's human family members remember all of the times Nikki made them laugh by doing binkies and jumping on her owner Andrew's bed! As seen in the picture above, even Nikki's foster mom had a laugh when she came into the kitchen and Nikki was sitting inside her garbage can looking for goodies! What a spectacular personality! Sadly, Nikki had a growth on her lungs, which eventually claimed her life. Her spectacular personality will be hard to match. We will miss you Nikki!

Make Hug-a-Bunny Cash Through iGive.com!

Are you an internet shopper? If so, there's a simple way to make Hug-a-Bunny some extra cash, that costs you nothing!

Many people shop online anyway, and here's a way to support us at the same time!! When you sign up through IGive.com and shop, you will raise a percentage of your purchases for Hug-a-Bunny Rabbit Rescue! Just check us off as your chosen charity and shop away! A percentage of your purchases (different at every store) will be donated directly to us to use for medical and daily care for our rescued rabbits. It's so simple to do and you can have fun at the same time! Just go to the website (linked below) and follow the instructions on the page to locate and choose our rescue as your chosen charity!

Click here to go directly to iGive.com

All of our supporters have already raised over $300 through IGive.com! Please keep shopping online through IGive's mall and make sure to pick Hug-a-Bunny as your chosen cause! Thank you to all of the "shoppers" who support Hug-a-Bunny through this website! Again, it costs you nothing, but has amazing benefits for our rescue! Happy shopping!

Rabbit Care: The Scoop on Litterbox Training

Many people are surprised when they find out that rabbits are easily litterbox trained. It's the truth! If given the proper supplies, most rabbits are quite easy to litterbox train! Rabbits are very clean animals and like to keep their space clean. Offering a litterbox is appreciated by many rabbits (since again, they are very neat and clean) and can often work immediately! We have rescued over 200 rabbits and have been successful in training every rabbit who has passed through our rescue. Our technique is based on years of trial and error!

First, it's important to note that wire-bottom cages (also called fall-through cages), where rabbits poop and it falls to a tray below, aren't good for many reasons. They don't promote litterbox training since the poop and urine falls through to a tray below. In the past, rabbits were kept outdoors and weren't members of a family. Now, as the house rabbit has become more popular and is now the "norm" in many places, wire bottom cages are no longer as acceptable. Wire also can be bad for a rabbit's feet. Wire can cause an issue called sore hocks, which essentially are sores that can cause infections. We like a solid floor for a rabbit's feet, whether in a plastic or linoleum-bottom cage, exercise pen, or as a free roam bunny. Many people think rabbits need pads, towels, or sheets to keep the bottom surface comfortable, but we find that that many rabbits like a clean bottom for the cool floor. In our experience, most rabbits also like to bite through and pee on any sort of fabrics. So, until your rabbit is litterbox trained, make sure the floor of the rabbit's living area is bare and easily cleaned- it may take a few days for the rabbit to get the hang of it!

Many people who do keep their rabbits indoors still use cedar or pine bedding on the bottom of their rabbit's cage. While these products are ok for smaller animals, cedar and pine bedding is not good for rabbits. In fact, according to highly esteemed exotics vets from the House Rabbit Society, the "phenols in cedar shavings may cause liver damage" (http://www.rabbit.org/journal/1/liver-disease.html). Further, the oils can cause problems with their skin. If you currently have or use cedar bedding for your rabbit, kindly donate it to a local shelter or rescue group that can use it!

The same goes for cat litter! While it is safe and wonderful for cats, clay litter is not appropriate for rabbits! Rabbits should never be living on scoopable cat litter.

An important thing to note when beginning to litterbox train your rabbit is that rabbits will pick a corner where they will typically go to the bathroom. If you're able to spot that corner and put the litterbox there, you're one step closer to having a litterbox trained rabbit! In addition, rabbits love to poop and eat at the same time! You may notice that your untrained rabbit will go to the bathroom while eating. Once your rabbit is litterbox trained, move the hay hopper or holder (for information on diet, see our posting titled Rabbit Health: Diet) closer to the litterbox so the rabbit can eat and relieve him or herself at the same time! This will increase your chances of having a fully litterbox trained rabbit!

If you have recently adopted a rabbit, make sure to cut the rabbit some slack! They have been most likely moved around more than once, and will take some time to settle into a new home and routine. Even our most perfectly litterbox trained rabbits have had some issues transitioning into a new home. This is not uncommon, especially if the rabbit is entering a home where other rabbits are or were present. Rabbit scents don't leave overnight and a newly adopted rabbit will be able to smell scents left by other rabbits. This may cause a newly adopted or recently moved rabbit to "mark" their territory, and may throw off their litterbox training. Make sure to thoroughly clean an area before you can expect a rabbit to be perfectly litterbox trained there.

In order to litterbox train your rabbit, there's a few supplies you'll need. Please note, everyone litterbox trains rabbits differently. The way we litterbox train our rabbits is based on successfully litterbox training about 200 rabbits. While we know this works for our foster rabbits, feel free to use whatever works best for you and your rabbit!

The supplies we use are:

A square hi-bac litterbox (or a medium to large-sized cat litterbox)- In our experience, these plastic litterboxes are the best choice for rabbits. They are the most inclined to jump in this litterbox and can easily eat and relieve themselves at the same time! We use this litterbox for most of our rabbits and find that they prefer this box to others out there. This can be purchased at most pet stores like Petco, Petsmart, and Pet Goods (on Rt. 17 South in Paramus).

Carefresh Bedding- This product is made from recycled paper and is soft and wonderful! It holds in odor and is easy to clean. While the product does come in white and other assorted colors, we love the classic grey Carefresh litter the best by far! This can be purchased at most pet stores like Petco, Petsmart, and Pet Goods (on Rt. 17 South in Paramus).


Once you have the correct supplies, fill up the litterbox only with about an inch or less of Carefresh bedding. Again, the rest of the cage should be bare, without anything on the bottom. Place the litterbox in a corner of the cage facing either front or sideways, whichever you and the rabbit prefer. Place the hay source near the litterbox so it is easily accessible from there. Once in place, gently guide your rabbit to show them the litterbox. You can softly place your rabbit inside the litterbox. Rabbits are very intelligent and do understand praise. You can reward your rabbit when he or she is in the litterbox, and when they go to the bathroom in there. Find a treat (like a piece of dried fruit) that your rabbit loves and feed them the treat when you see them using their litterbox!

When accidents happen, which is common in the beginning, soak up the urine with the Carefresh bedding and place it back in the litterbox. Throw all poops (which are small, dry, and odorless to humans) back in the litterbox. For the first few days that a rabbit is being trained (or if a rabbit has recently joined your home), let the litterbox get a little dirty. This will allow the rabbit's scent to be in one place, which will help the rabbit realize that they should be going to the bathroom in there.

To clean the litterbox, simply put the whole thing inside a plastic shopping bag and tap the backside. You can use a rabbit-safe cleaner or diluted white vinegar to clean the bottom of the litterbox if needed. Then, refill the litterbox with Carefresh bedding. You can spot clean the litterbox daily by putting a bag on your hand and grabbing the corner where the rabbit urinates. The whole litterbox should be cleaned every 2-3 days to keep the area odor-free and clean!

Below you can see a picture of our adoptable Hug-a-Bunny Winnie the Pooh sitting in his litterbox. You can see the clear floor below him, the square hi-bac litterbox with Carefresh bedding in it, and the hay source (a shoebox clipped to the side of the cage) right near him! What a setup!



Eventually, as your rabbit gets the hand of litterbox training, you can add in a carpet remnant into the cage for added comfort. We suggest waiting, since if a rabbit has an accident while training takes place, the scent will often stay in there and may deter the rabbit from using the litterbox!

There are other litter materials that have been known to work. Yesterday's News is a litter that is widely used for rabbits. This litter is also made of recycled paper and is made in pellet form. Some rabbits do like this litter and it is another popular choice for litterbox training rabbits. We like Carefresh more, since you can soak up any accidents to put back in the litterbox. Some people also use newspaper on the bottom of their litterbox and cover that with hay. While that may work for some, we don't like our rabbits urinating on their hay, since it can get very messy. Plus, if they come across a pile of hay as they're hopping about, we don't want them to think it's ok to pee in it! We prefer to stick with Carefresh litter!

When your rabbit has time out of his or her cage to play, make sure the food, hay, water, and litterbox are all accessible at all times! You can either buy a second litterbox to put in another spot, move the litterbox into the play space, or leave the cage door open for the rabbit if they are playing in the same place that their cage is. It may be hard for the rabbit to transition with his or her litterbox skills out of the cage, so be patient. It will take time for your rabbit to realize that they need to go in the litterbox wherever they may be! If more than one rabbit plays in the same spot (if they are NOT bonded), they may try to mark the spot where the last rabbit was. Make sure to clean the area well.

Below, you can see our adopted Hug-a-Bunny Blue J. (adopted in 2008) sitting in his litterbox during playtime. The food, hay, and water (the water bowl is out of range of the picture) is all easily accessible to him!


Of course, even if you follow these directions religiously, you may need some help troubleshooting. In the event that you've tried our suggestions and still need some advice, feel free to email us at hugabunny@gmail.com for some additional help! You may find that your rabbit prefers a different brand or type of litter. Please also note that everything listed above (and everything on this blog for that matter) is our opinion. Feel free to follow what you believe in!

Good luck litterbox training!

Welcome Scout!

We'd like to welcome a new, adorable guy into our rescue! Welcome Scout! Scout is an adorable little dwarf with fur of beautiful shades of peaches and creams. Unfortunately, his life didn’t start out so beautifully. Scout was found outdoors by a nice person and was brought to a vet’s office where they wanted to euthanize him. Luckily, that day a nice vet was there and she literally saved his life, since not everyone wanted to give him a fighting chance. At the time, Scout had a small abscess on his chin, which no one wanted to treat. The sweet vet took Scout, cured, him, and gave him a temporary home until we had room. She also neutered Scout herself and helped him recuperate before he came into our rescue. We feel so lucky that Scout's path crossed with the doctor’s that day, since she gave him a second chance. Now, he's safe and happy in his foster home.

Even after all that's happened to Scout, he's still a very sweet boy. He doesn't mind being petted and held for short periods of time. He also loves to eat, and he's definitely been making up for lost time. He's still a small guy and we don’t think he’ll grow much more. As I mentioned before, his coat is stunning and soft, and he loves to show it off to anyone who will look his way! Scout is about a year old and was neutered about a month ago. Even though he's small, he's not the best pet for children, since rabbits can get scared easily. He is litterbox trained and is finally ready for a home of his own. We're happy to have Scout in our rescue, and we have a feeling his stay here will be short-lived. We're sure an amazing, loving home will come along soon for this adorable man! However, he'll have a happy and safe place with us for however long it takes to find his perfect placement! Welcome Scout!

Make Mine Chocolate!

As a rescue focused on rabbits, every Easter we face a big challenge with people purchasing rabbits for the wrong reasons, since the rabbit is the symbol of this holiday. Many people like the novelty of having a young rabbit at their Easter party or as a gift for their kids. People buy baby rabbits for their children (who often beg for the cute fluffy bunny), then realize that they are a big commitment and get rid of them when the rabbit grows and reaches sexual maturity. Even shelters see an influx of potential adopters around this time of year.

About 2-3 months after Easter, there is a huge increase of rabbits dropped off at shelters. We call these rabbits "Easter rejects" since they are the poor victims of people buying or adopting rabbits for the wrong reasons and then dumping them when they no longer want the 8-10 year commitment.

In 2002, the Columbus chapter of the House Rabbit Society created a movement to put a stop to this pattern. They call their campaign, "Make Mine Chocolate." The focus is on just that- encouraging people to give chocolate rabbits as gifts rather than an innocent live animal. Their aim is to educate people on rabbits and their specific needs and to discourage people from buying or adopting rabbits as Easter gifts. If people gave chocolate bunnies to children instead of needing to buy a real bunny, many lives would be saved. Click here to visit the "Make Mine Chocolate" website.


As a rescue who cares about education and welfare of rabbits, we fully support this mission. Sadly, we do have some rabbits in our rescue who are victims of this horrible situation. One of them is Sunflower, who was purchased in Easter of 2008 and dumped at a shelter soon after. She is still on the search for a permanent, loving home. Even though this message relates to Easter and a specific time of year, this campaign helps people realize that rabbits should never be used as a gift. Even though fall is upon us now, this campaign has a great message that we wanted to share with everyone.